#REIKAN FOCAL PRO TAMRON TAP ISO#
ISO should be at the normal low according to the manufacturer (i.e.
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Camera SettingsĬameras should be set to aperture priority, with apertures as wide as possible for each lens. A depth-of-field calculator app verified that the included recommended distances split the depth of field for each lens/camera combination down the middle. You will need a tape measure to mark off designated distances from the camera to the SpyderLensCal. That said, tethering to a computer shows finer detail and similar to using a remote or (two-second) timer, will ensure a sharper capture. The camera's LCD should show you enough detail to check focus as you calibrate each lens. I found it simpler to use a tripod than a studio stand, as there are fewer moving parts to keep lined up, and I have three plates for my tripod head.
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I mounted the SpyderLensCal on a tripod and my camera on a tripod set at the same height. It also features a brass 1/4-20 mount to secure it to a tripod quick release plate.įor the best accuracy, both the SpyderLensCal and camera need to be level, parallel, and at the same height. The camera's film plane, or, focal plane, will need to be totally parallel to the SpyderLensCal for it to work, so a level was a necessary inclusion. It had positive reviews and included a built-in bubble level, which was a deal-maker. To calibrate my autofocus lenses, I ended up ordering a Datacolor SpyderLensCal from B&H.
#REIKAN FOCAL PRO TAMRON TAP PLUS#
With three DSLR cameras and six autofocus lenses, plus a 1.4x teleconverter, outsourcing the work would quickly add up even with a price break. I have heard of camera repair shops offering a calibration service often for one camera body and two lenses around $100. My (Nikon) cameras have an "Autofocus Fine-Tune" setting which I had never attempted to use. I decided to try calibrating my gear before sending anything out for repair, and I'm glad I did. The teleconverter had always been slightly out of focus, and with larger resolution image sensors, that issue was even more obvious. It reminded me of my 1.4x teleconverter that I've never been impressed despite reviews stressing preservation of detail. I wasn't sure if the lens needed a repair, but my gut said the lens and camera combination needed a calibration, as both components worked well apart from one another. The issue only appeared in that one combination, and the focus was practically useless, leaving me to focus manually. While photographing at a job recently, I ran into a back-focus issue with a camera and a telephoto lens.
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Check out this review and how-to on calibrating lenses using the Datacolor SpyderLensCal. Have you ever noticed that your camera's autofocus is consistently back or front-focused? It may not be your fault.